William Fevre Grand Cru Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots 2020

In a sense, the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots offers a resumé of several of Fèvre's grand cru bottlings, uniting the taut musculature of Valmur and the ethereal, mineral profile of Les Preuses, with some of the perfumed sensuality of Vaudésir and fleshy texture of Bougros. The result is certainly a very compelling wine, exhibiting aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers, freshly baked bread, oyster jus and white peach, followed by a full-bodied, taut and layered palate that's seamless and complete, concluding with a pungently mineral finish. It's worth a special effort to seek out, though a decade's patience is warmly advised. - Robert Parker

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